I was doing a client’s makeup the other day and noticed how naturally bright her under-eye area seemed and mentioned it to her. She responded that she has Botox to thank for that. Hmmmm, I’m not sure about that. She was on the fairer side so genetically, darkness underneath the eyes may not be a problem for her in the first place. While the photo to the right is obviously photoshopped a bit (not by me), but I bet it’s not far off from reality for some women. Dark under-eye circles are one of the biggest complaints that I hear about from women with olive skin, South Asian heritage and darker skinned women. These pockets of high pigmentation, if persistent, are most likely hereditary, extending way back in your genetic history. If under-eye darkness tends to be temporary, but still annoying, then lifestyle and diet are most likely the things that need tweaking. In either case, there are makeup solutions out there to help mask these surly pockets of darkness. Stay tuned for a pictorial.

In the collage above, I depict all the categories of products you will need to mask any darkness underneath your eyes or get that bright-eyed Hollywood look (without looking like raccoon in reverse).  Darkness under the eyes is most often reflected in a blue/grey hue. Using colour theory, a peachy or orange-coloured product would neutralize the blue pigmentation.  This works every time regardless of whether you are a fair-haired blonde who only gets 3 hours of sleep every night or you are a brown-skinned Indian woman who has suffered from dark circles since birth. Contrary to what makeup artist Bobbi Brown preaches, placing a yellow-based concealer on top of blue-grey circles will make you look green (yellow + blue = green).

Illamasqua’s Cream Pigment in “Emerge” (£17.00, 8g) is a creamy peach pigment that is neither too cool or too warm in tone. Because it is a pure pigment, it is more opaque, gives better coverage and can be used in a variety of ways (see upcoming post later this week). Pat “Emerge” cream pigment on lightly or use a fluffy brush to place the colour underneath your eyes.

In addition to “Emerge” pigment, you will need your regular under eye concealer. (If you are very fair, you might be able to get away with “Emerge” (or similar product) only and a little powder on top.) Your under eye concealer should be very emollient and light in texture as to not appear heavy under the eyes or crease. I use MAC’s Select Cover-Up concealer in NW 40 (£13.50, 10ml). Whatever concealer you use, pat it on top of “Emerge”.

In the picture above, you may struggle to notice the slight difference because I, fortunately, do not genetically suffer from severe under eye circles (and I got plenty of sleep the night before!). However, I recently used this pigment underneath the eyes and around the mouth of an Indian woman of my complexion and I got a hug out of it. Need I say more?

Lastly, use a translucent powder (one that does not add more pigment) to complete the look and add a brightness to the eyes. The powder will also set the creamy pigment and concealer in place so that you don’t get any creasing. Et voila, now you’re bright-eyed and bushy tailed and ready for the world. Stay tuned tomorrow for the completed look in an FOTD.